I went to the opening night of Grace Ives’ Girlfriend Tour at Underground Arts in Philadelphia and it was very fun.

what I’m clicking:

The best free restaurant bread in America | Confessions of an Upper East Side bartender | New York real estate and the ruin of American art | Making roast chicken with Jacques Pepin | All the worst people want to be “high agency” | The quest to solve bitcoin’s biggest mystery | A century of book of the month club | The death of a superman | The New Orleans car crash conspiracy | Should we all start smoking cigarettes again?

what i’m wanderlusting:

The floating markets of the Mekong

what i’m listening to:

I went to see the Finnish opera Innocence at The Met a few weeks ago. Totally modern and original, but also completely depressing.

where i’m traveling:

Meet me in Medellin

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what i’m watching:

I watched the Louis Theroux Netflix documentary about the manosphere and my takeaway is that we should all know less about the manosphere. I regret learning any of this.

what i’m eating:

Last weekend my sisters were in town and on Sunday afternoon, we stumbled into Bufon for what was supposed to be drinks and ended up being a full cocktail hour of brioche, caviar, sunchokes, snap peas, and all sorts of delicious vegetable dishes. I loved it so much I made a reservation to go back on Friday with friends, and I think it’s one of my new favorite spots in the Lower East Side.

what i’m drinking:

There’s this restaurant in Costa Rica called Ani’s that makes a coconut frappucino and I’ve finally figured out how to make it at home with a little espresso, ice, and canned coconut milk. Haley has also been making me delicious little mochas in the morning with Guittard chocolate, and sometimes I’ll make a smoothie version with a banana and some protein powder.

what i’m coveting:

I have a lot of ideas where to wear this Stella McCartney dress

what i’m recommending:

Last weekend my beloved tiny leopard print umbrella was STOLEN from a bar, so I’ve had to replace it. I always pack an umbrella on trips because I’m superstitious that if I don’t bring one, I will definitely need one.

what i’m reading:

I have gotten caught up in a few gossipy memoirs recently, starting with Strangers by Belle Burden, which I devoured but it left me with more questions than answers. I forgot I preordered Lena Dunham’s new book, Famesick, and when it arrived in the mail I opened it and was instantly sucked in. It’s interesting who she’s not afraid to name and shame and who she keeps anonymous.

I did not read the new Lindy West book, but I read ~the discourse~ about it because multiple group chats were popping off about it. I’ll probably buy it anyways in order to support her so she can escape the three-person cult she’s currently a member of.

Also in the world of juicy memoirs, I’ll be bringing Laurie Woolever’s Care and Feeding to Colombia with me next week.

Pamela Anderson in The Last Showgirl

what I’m clicking:

This is what it means when I lol | The benevolent landlord of St Marks place | The Before Sunrise generation | Doing things we don’t want to do | Has taking the perfect photo ruined tourism? (yes) | The aspirational world of bops | My life at a Nevada brothel | A new kind of publishing scam | Progressive ideals as a punchline | A Hollywood horror story | Fifth Avenue fight club | The secrets of the Hoffman Process | How private equity ruins everything | The Grande Dame of the Epstein files | A scene report from the SF tech world (that I literally thought was satire until the end, when I googled these people)

what i’m wanderlusting:

The rock-hewn churches of Lalibela

what i’m listening to:

Absolutely thrilled by Afroman winning his trial. I encourage you to do a deep dive, perhaps while eating some Lemon Pound Cake.

where i’m traveling:

On my way to the Netherlands to ride around on boats and look at buildings, mostly

what i’m watching:

Like many of us, I am, unfortunately, captivated by the JFK Jr. show, but I don’t even want to mention it because I am SO sick of all the CBK/JFKJR style spam that’s been clogging my online existence.

what i’m recommending:

Bought these little animal print Reeboks after seeing similar ones in the men’s section at Isetan in Tokyo. I brought them with me on a trip without breaking them in first and I’ve been able to do 20k steps a day with no blisters.

what i’m eating & drinking:

A few weeks ago I went to a dinner party hosted by Clase Azul, where we sipped tequila and mezcal in between courses from Hellbender. Everything was sublime and I woke up with zero hangover, so now I’m a huge fan and I WILL be planning a trip to their distillery.

what i’m coveting:

Do I need these silk pillowcases?

what i’m reading:

We read Lost Lambs for book club, which was an absolute delight, but now that it’s over I can’t really remember anything about it.

I have been dabbling in analog plane rides recently and finished I Am Pilgrim on my way to Europe. The casual Islamophobia/cultural ignorance/American patriotism was kind of a jump scare for me, so YMMV, but I found it embarrassingly riveting.

I watched The Lost Boys for the first time recently and I still can’t stop thinking about the greased-up saxophone player. Can’t wait to see him on Broadway.

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10. Great Black Hope by Rob Franklin

9. Ghosts by Dolly Alderton

8. Circe by Madeline Miller

7. The Destroyers by Christopher Bollen

6. Number 9 Dream by David Mitchell

5. God of the…

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Since about 2010, I’ve visited a new country every year, including in 2020 when I went to Costa Rica for the first time that January. I didn’t go to any new countries this year, but…

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I was in Harbour Island earlier this month and got to go to the last Junkanoo practice of the year. On Harbour Island they celebrate on January 1st, but many moons ago we spent…

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Push their boundaries with a freaky-deaky co-ferment from Rose Hill Farms

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When my sister Abby was in town a few weeks ago, we made an early evening pit stop at Neue Galerie, which is basically my ideal museum because you can see everything in under a…

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The day I boarded the ship, I got a message from my editor that there had been a change of plans. Now, they needed a full photoshoot, and I’d have to model — face and everything. Luckily, I packed a suitcase full of gowns. (But in retrospect, I should have hit up the on-board salon for some professional hair and makeup.)

I spent the week with Natali Afsar, a Belgian photographer who has carved out a niche as THE chic ship photographer. I think getting my photo taken is actually kind of fun. Models have literally the easiest job in the world and if any of them try to convince you otherwise, just take that with a grain of salt because they’re probably too beautiful to have ever worked a real job.

See the full story in Oltre Magazine or keep reading for the behind-the-scenes scoop.

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where I went

The cruise started in Athens with stops in Milos, Chania, Ortigia, Taormina, and Sorrento before ending in Rome. If I could only choose one of those places to return to, it would probably be Crete, a Greek island that is so unique it should basically be its own country. (They agree.)

Otherworldly natural wonders, great food and wine, and some of the best beaches in the Med. We went to what is probably the worst beach in Crete and it was still pretty ideal: walking distance from town and crammed with loungers, but soft sand and crystal clear water.

who I met

Most of the people I met were first-time cruisers, lured by the promise that the RC yacht is not like other cruises. (It is in fact exactly like other cruises, only better.) Everyone on board was surprisingly young (lots of couples in their 40s) and surprisingly hot (there was a literal Victoria’s Secret model onboard). I already wrote about the most enigmatic person on board, a septuagenarian Italian woman who dressed exclusively in couture gowns and diamonds. The only other time I have seen this $500k Bulgari serpenti necklace was at a museum exhibit in Moscow. The rumor on board was that she did the inaugural sailing with her husband the previous week and loved it so much she just didn’t get off the boat. I hope she is still onboard.

what I ate

The food on board was better than it needed to be. I had the best spaghetti carbonara of my entire trip, and that’s saying a lot since I spent a week in Rome after the cruise. But the best thing I ate was this cold sesame noodle with crab. I still think about it sometimes. (Please tell me where I can find this in New York!)

My one critique of the food on board is that there was no breakfast buffet. I am not a breakfast person, so I love when I’m at a fancy hotel and I get to have some weird little salads, an Asian soup, and a chocolate croissant first thing in the morning. (Shout out to Velaa in the Maldives for having the best breakfast buffet in the world). The breakfast situation onboard was a little whack, honestly, since they had no non-egg, non-sweet, hot items. (But they did make me congee one morning, which is my ideal breakfast.)

My meals off the boat were mostly unremarkable except for on the Amalfi coast, where our boat driver took us to this restaurant for maybe the best spaghetti alle vongole I’ve ever had in my life, accompanied by some Furore from Marisa Cuomo.

what I drank

My mom is famously not allowed to drink gin because “it makes her want to rob a bank” so in solidarity with her, I tried a non-alcoholic Negroni made with actual zero-proof Tanqueray, vermouth, and Campari. (I also had plenty of real Negronis, French 75s, Americanos, and who can say no when a staff member cracks open a magnum of Whispering Angel?)

what I read

I’ve killed too many brain cells to reread The Odyssey, so I opted for the next best thing: Circe.

what I packed:

A Georgia Hardinge number similar to this one and a long mauve version of this Good American dress paired with a boxy silk kimono from Poochki. I packed but didn’t end up wearing a floor-length mesh dress that I got for $10 at one of those pay-by-weight vintage stores in Paris. My bag was a sparkly number similar to this one from Jennifer Miller. I also packed my silk robe from Kayll, which made a cameo in the photos. But most of the photoshoots happened in a bathrobe.

what I listened to

One night on board, they had a party where they had local musicians play and it was literally the best cover band I have ever heard in my life? Future brides, this is your sign to have a Dolce Vita wedding and hire these guys.

what I bought:

Since I was going back to Taormina, I made a plan to visit Antonio lo Turco to buy some earrings I regretted not getting last time I was there. He remembered us and was so happy we returned that he gave my mom and I each one of these little horn charms made of coral. I wear it all the time next to my shark tooth charm. I bought a pair of giant gold cross earrings that I wore to the Vatican a few days later.

is it worth it?

Did I have fun? Yes. Did I eat delicious things and see new places? Also yes. Would I pay $25k for this?

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For my birthday a few weeks ago, Haley and I went to see one of the last performances of Cabaret at the Kit Kat Club. It was maybe the best performance I’ve seen on Broadway an…

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Finally went to one of those shows under the BQE this weekend and now I’m obsessed with everyone in TV on the Radio.

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Cole Escola as Little Edie in the Hamptons issue of NY Mag

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Gurmit Kaur (seen here in Vogue Italia)

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Julia Butterfly Hill, who lived in a tree for 738 days.

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I went to see the Alvin Ailey exhibit at the Whitney on one of their free Friday nights. It was a little overwhelming trying to navigate the exhibit with so many other people w…

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15. All Fours by Miranda July

14. Trust by Hernan Diaz

13. The Dog Stars by Peter Heller

12. Demon Copperhead by Barbara Kingsolver

11. Blue Sisters by Coco Mellors

10.

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Time to channel my inner Totoro (fat & fuzzy)

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With our impending return to the Dark Ages, I’m finding myself drawn to all things medieval, especially this Chappell Roan of Arc vibe from the VMAs. 

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Like the rest of the internet, I’m obsessed with Kim Yeji, the Korean Olympic sharpshooter who looks like a character in a dystopian sci-fi film. 

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Dennis Rodman circa 1995

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