A Travel Writer Shares Her Under-the-Radar Italian Hideaways

Rome-based freelance journalist Laura Itzkowitz takes us on a stylish romp through the country's design capital.

Anybody who’s ever been to Italy has probably daydreamed about selling all of their furniture, buying a one-way ticket, and moving to the land of pizza and Boticelli and rocky Mediterranean beaches. My friend Laura Itzkowitz is one of those people that turned a daydream into a reality.

Laura has worked in travel media for over a decade, writing for publications like Travel + Leisure, AFAR, Architectural Digest, Food & Wine, Hemispheres, and many others. She also writes a weekly Substack called the New Roman Times, which every Italophile should subscribe to.

“It’s easy to think that travel writers are always on vacation,” says Laura, “but that’s not actually the case. While I realize that I’m incredibly lucky to travel to glamorous places and stay in five-star hotels, it is work. Prior to my honeymoon in 2021, I hadn’t taken a real vacation in years. Since then, I’ve been making a conscious effort to take a proper summer vacation with my husband. I always end up writing about it afterwards, though!”

While Laura is an expert on all things Italy, her travels have taken her all over the world. [Editor’s note: Laura and I met on a trip to India and since then have traveled to Kenya and Egypt together—I can’t wait to find out where we end up together next!] Keep reading to find out about her secret spots in Italy and beyond, plus the ultimate guide to Milan.

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Do you have a suitcase or bag you love?

I love my Away carry-on. My suitcase once missed a connecting flight to Cape Town and since then I avoid checking a bag unless absolutely necessary. That Away carry-on may look small, but it fits a ton of stuff.

What’s the one thing that’s always in your carry-on? 

My iPhone. I’m hopelessly dependent on it.

What’s the one thing you never go on a trip without?

My laptop. I can never fully escape from work.

What’s the best thing you watched on the plane recently? 

I watched Ticket to Paradise starring George Clooney and Julia Roberts—not the most groundbreaking film, but perfect for a flight.

What’s your go-to travel uniform? 

Jeans or linen pants in the summer, a casual top, and a blazer. I think a good blazer elevates any outfit.

What beauty products do you always bring with you? 

I have a fairly minimalist approach when it comes to makeup, but I always bring Armani eye shadow, eyeliner, and lip gloss in pale pink and red.

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Most luxurious trip you’ve ever been on? 

I’ve had the great fortune to be on many luxurious trips, but the one that stands out the most is our India press trip with Oberoi and Abercrombie & Kent. We were literally showered with rose petals upon arriving at the Oberoi Udaivilas and when I made an offhand comment about how much I liked the rose-scented lotion at the spa, it magically appeared in my room after dinner. I also went on a ridiculously luxurious press trip to Hong Kong and Beijing with Peninsula Hotels. As soon as we arrived in Hong Kong, we boarded a helicopter for a tour of the city from above. And then they privatized a vintage tram so we could tour the city in style with champagne and snacks.

Least luxurious trip you’ve ever been on? 

Traveling around Bolivia with my sister when she was studying abroad there. We were squished into the back of a bus for like seven hours on the way to a little town in the cloud forest and when we arrived, the lodgings were rather spartan, but that was an amazing trip anyway—definitely a bonding experience.

Most adventurous thing you’ve ever done while traveling? 

I’m not at liberty to say.

What’s the weirdest thing that’s ever happened on a trip? 

I invited the cute waiter from my hotel in Rome to meet up with me in Sorrento, not expecting he actually would. He did and now we’re married.

Craziest solo travel experience? 

See above.

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What’s the most incredible meal you’ve ever had? 

I’ve been to my fair share of Michelin-starred restaurants, but honestly, my most memorable meals are the simplest ones, like eating fresh burrata that the owner of an agriturismo in Puglia made right before my eyes or walking down Via dell’Indipendenza in Gaeta and trying the tiella (a kind of savory pie filled with octopus or vegetables only found in that town) at a bunch of bakeries/hole in the wall spots.

What’s the most underrated foodie destination?

If you love pizza, you have to go to Caserta, a small city about 40 minutes north of Naples, which is home to the world’s best pizzeria (I wrote about it for Food & Wine). And about 20 minutes outside of Caserta in the village of Caiazzo is Pepe in Grani, the groundbreaking pizzeria by master pizzaiolo Franco Pepe, who was featured on the Netflix show Chef’s Table: Pizza. (I wrote about that too).

Have any vacation meals inspired you to make your own version at home? 

Yes, in fact, my husband and I often buy food as souvenirs. I’ve replicated the linguine alla Nicolo I ate last summer in Sardinia and made fregola sarda with clams and tomatoes, which I learned to make in a cooking class at Forte Village. I wish I could replicate the Thai curries I ate in Thailand, but they never come out right.

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What’s your favorite kind of souvenir to bring home? 

I love to buy things that I’ll actually use, whether clothes and accessories or home decor. I buy a lot of earrings, which are easy to carry, and I collect hand-painted ceramics. But I’ve been known to go all out from time to time, like that time I bought a rug in Marrakech. (I checked a suitcase for that trip.)

What’s the best thing you’ve ever bought on a trip? 

Probably that Moroccan rug.

Is there anything you’ve bought on a trip that you now bring with you on all your travels?

I bought a colorful silk tunic at the Jim Thompson outlet in Bangkok that I love to wear when I want to look chic. I also bought a sort of beachy bohemian white dress in Sicily that I bring whenever I travel to beach destinations.

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Which hotel would you live in and why? 

The Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg is like my home away from home. I used to live a few blocks away and often went to have coffee and work in the restaurant. The owner, Peter Lawrence, is one of the kindest and most wonderful people in the hospitality industry. And my dear friend Kimia Kline is the hotel’s art curator. They do a lot to support artists and the local community.

Which hotel has the best rooms? 

The Royal Mansour in Marrakech. Every room is a private riad.

Where’s the best hotel pool in the world? 

The pools at Oberoi hotels have these deep cobalt tiles that make the water look this amazing color. I especially love the pool at Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra.

What’s your favorite under-the-radar hotel? 

Cape Kudu Hotel, a member of Small Luxury Hotels in Koh Yao Noi. On my first trip to Thailand, I brought my best friend from college and we went to Bangkok, Phuket, and Koh Yao Noi. And while we stayed in some very swanky hotels, this laid-back resort on the little island of Koh Yao Noi was the highlight. The hotel itself is really beautiful and the staff went out of their way to show us the best of the destination. We went on a guided tour of the island and stopped at a little coconut farm and also went island hopping and snorkeling on a longtail boat. We did a Thai cooking class with their chef, but unfortunately, I haven’t been able to replicate the incredible food we ate there!

If you owned a hotel, where would it be and what would it be like?

I envision a small country villa ideally not far from Rome. I would design it and fill it with eclectic finds from my travels and my husband Marco would run the restaurant.

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Where’s your favorite beach? 

I’ve been to some incredibly pristine beaches in the British Virgin Islands and Turks & Caicos where I felt like a castaway, but I really love the convenience of Italian beach clubs with lounge chairs and umbrellas in neat rows. I think my favorite beach might be Spiaggia Punta Nera on the Isola di San Pietro, a tiny island off the coast of Sardinia. The lounge chairs there are not set up in neat rows but rather the proprietors of the little beach club La Tana will just set up a lounge chair and umbrella for you wherever you want. It’s basically a wooden shack with someone making sandwiches and serving Aperol Spritzes in plastic cups. And the water is some of the cleanest, most crystalline water I’ve ever seen. 

Where’s your favorite place to visit in the summer?

Now that I live in Rome I’m obsessed with the Mediterranean summers. I’m torn between wanting to return to my favorite places and exploring somewhere new every summer, but for now at least I’m happy to spend our one big summer vacation in Italy. For our honeymoon in 2021, we road-tripped around Sicily. Last summer, we went to Sardinia. This year I think we’re going to explore the beaches of Puglia and Calabria.

Where do you like to spend the holidays? 

I travel so often for work that when the holidays roll around, I just want to stay home.

Is there anywhere you like to visit over and over again? 

Tuscany, Sicily, Puglia, the Amalfi Coast. Also France. I studied in Paris and wish I could get back there more often, but I also love traveling around France and discovering new-to-me places. Marco and I just did a road trip on the Côte d’Azur. One day I hope to explore Normandy, Lyon, and Bordeaux. 

What destinations or travel experiences are at the top of your bucket list?

Vienna. I’ve been trying to go to Vienna for a few years and my plans always get thwarted. I’m also dying to go to Jaipur and do a tiger safari in Rajasthan.

Are there any places that you’re eager to return to? 

So many! Istanbul and Marrakech for the shopping and the food. Thailand because Marco hasn’t been and I think he would love Bangkok and the islands. And within Italy, I really want to go back to Sicily to revisit Palermo and go to places I haven’t been yet, like Cefalù and the Aeolian Islands.

Is there anywhere you definitely won’t return to?

I think it’s unlikely that I’ll go back to Bolivia, but I never say never! [Editor’s note: I’m manifesting our next trip together to the Explora lodge in Uyuni]

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Favorite airport? 

I think I might have to say Fiumicino, my home airport. It’s surprisingly efficient. I always get through security in five minutes flat. And it’s Italy, so I can always get a good cappuccino.

What websites do you use to plan a trip? 

I usually check Travel + Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler for inspiration, Google maps to plan out itineraries, and since I travel a lot in Italy, I research restaurants on sites like Gambero Rosso. I find a lot of restaurant recommendations on Italian websites, especially when traveling to under-the-radar places. There are always some suggestions that don’t appear in whatever coverage has been done about that place in English.

Favorite travel hack?

If you want to soak up the glamor of an opulent five-star hotel without paying the exorbitant rate for a room, stop by the bar for a drink or even a coffee or tea. Before I became a travel writer, I used to find those hotels intimidating, but once you start frequenting them, you realize that just because someone can pay $1,000 a night for a hotel room, it doesn’t necessarily mean they dress better than you! And besides, the staff doesn’t care.

Any travel experiences you WON’T do? 

Ride a bike. I don’t trust myself not to crash.

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Want all the travel secrets and recommendations in one place? Follow the Alibi Guide to the World on Google Maps. 

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The Alibi Guide to Milan

While some see this Italian city as merely a jumping-off point, it’s worth a deeper dive.